"Czeching" in to the Czech Republic

Our trip from Krakow to Prague was very, very warm, but thank God the hotel had functioning air conditioning. These were the views from our 5th floor window.

Our hotel was located on the northwest side of town by a former deportation site.

After we checked in, we found a local pub and indulged in some Czech cuisine (duck and Urquell Pilsner for me). After that, we settled in to our rooms and my roommate and I organized the clothes we wanted to launder. The cost was going to be very high, but we felt pretty grubby and decided it would be worth it. More on that story later.

By the first complete day in Prague it was downright hot and we were scheduled to take a tour through Josefov, the Jewish Quarter of Prague. Together with my friend Cindy, my daughter Leah and her boyfriend Mike, I had done this same tour during the winter of 2013. During that tour we were lucky enough to be guided by a fellow who had completed a Ph.D. in History at the University of Texas at Austin. "George" was professional and thorough and we all learned a great deal.

We met our guide for this summer tour on the other (castle) side of the river. I believe he said his name was Karel, but I can't remember what anglicized name he asked us to use. I expect that the reason I don't remember is that he rubbed some of us "the wrong way". For starters, he used a fishing pole with an orange tennis ball to "herd" us.

Photo by Sura Levine

He wasn't responsive to questions and seemed very tied to a standard script.

We walked through the major synagogues starting with the Pinkas Synagogue.

Photo by Pinkas Synagogue site.

The interior is painted with a list of names and biographical dates of the 77,297 Jewish victims from Bohemia and Moravia. The synagogue is situated on the flood plain of the Vltava River and has been subjected to damaging floods necessitating extensive repairs and repainting.

Photo by Pinkas Synagogue site.

One member of our group found a family name and later sought permission to photograph the image.

The second floor of the synagogue has a display of children's drawings

Photo by Sura Levine.

and toys.

Photo by Sura Levine.

The Pinkas Synagogue opens up on the Old Jewish Cemetery. The guide we had in the winter of 2013 was particularly effective in pointing out the meaningful symbols on the gravestones, telling us stories of the deceased. A booklet on Jewish Prague says it "is perhaps the most visited monument of Prague...it is the largest and best preserved Jewish cemetery in the whole of Europe." The oldest gravestone dates back to 1439.

Photo by Sura Levine

The gravestone of Rabbi Loew is one of the most famous in the cemetery.

This matsevah (gravestone) features a lion (Loew), grapes and what I think is a pineapple (symbols of hospitality and graciousness).

While we were at the cemetery our guide made a joke about Hitler. Needless to say, this didn't sit well with members of our group.

The most controversial headstone is that of Hendele Bassevi. Traditionally, Jewish practice does not hold with art featuring human likenesses, but as is so often the case in this day and age--if you have enough money you can get your way. It is clear from this example that Hendele's husband was a wealthy man and he demanded this image on his wife's gravestone.

We walked through the Chevra Kadisha (click to learn more) facility, the ceremonial hall where the funeral society sat with and prepared the bodies of the deceased.

s f

The next stop on the Jewish Quarter tour is the Maisel Synagogue. The synagogues do not permit photography, so I borrowed images from the museum sites.

Maisel Synagogue site

This building houses displays of Judaica related to both everyday life as well as holidays throughout the Jewish calendar.

Maisel Synagogue site

We spent significant time there during the winter of 2013, but not so much on this trip.

The final stop was the gorgeous Spanish Synagogue.

Spanish Synagogue site

The entrance to this site is rather unprepossessing.

Spanish Synagogue site

The interior, on the other hand, is spectacular.

Spanish Synagogue site

The tour came to an end at this point, even though there was more to talk about, particularly with regard to the Alte Neue Synagogue.

The photo above shows the guide we worked with in the winter of 2013. He ended that tour a little bit later, AFTER describing the story of the Golem

and the Alte Neue Synagogue.

The steps, or rungs, lead up to the attic where the Golem was rumored to be stored. Our summer guide said nothing about the Alte Neue Shul nor the Golem.

Once the tour was over, we were free to explore on our own. My friend took me to lunch at a Thai Restaurant on Wenceslas Square.

Wenceslas Square site

After a delicious salad, we went looking for the Mucha Museum. My friend Sura is an art historian, so this was an extra special treat for me. After some erroneous directions, we were on our way to the museum. As we were walking down the street toward the museum, an older man (perhaps not that much older than me) came up from behind us while muttering and violently shoved Sura into me. It was a very strange moment.

The museum is focused and engaging.

Mucha Museum site

Sura was a great guide offering explanations for the process Mucha used to make his famous posters as well as some background on how he came to his success. I've always loved the Mucha images, which are in evidence around Prague, and I was happy to have the opportunity to visit the museum as this was something I didn't get around to during the winter of 2013.

Mucha Museum site

A bonus was that the film at the back of the museum was in a room with fans. Sura and I sat down to watch the film (making sure we got good fan coverage), and we both nodded off. It had been much too warm walking around on the city streets. After we revived, we decided to go in search of what my dad used to call a "buck-you-uppo" treat at the Prague municipal building.

Photo by Sura Levine

On our way, we saw this:

Photo by Sura Levine

We looked closely and realized there were no strings or other supports--this was all about balance.

When Cindy and I were in Prague in the Winter of 2013, we had strudel in one of the beautiful tea rooms.