After the bathroom incident, we managed to get back on track toward the ticket office. It was not too far from where we were, but we had to cross through the embassy neighborhoods before we found it.
After traipsing up an alley way marked on the map from one of my guide books, I finally found it. The front door was locked and I felt a momentary panic coupled with a heavy dose of outrage born of frustration. Before I let myself explode, I rang the bell and was admitted forthwith. The clerk asked if I had arranged to collect the tickets on this particular day, to which I admitted, no, I hadn't. She was about to suggest that I should return the next day (the day before we were scheduled to leave), but I think she perceived (correctly) that I might blow a gasket at such a recommendation. The other piece of this arrangement, which I found oh-so-frustrating, was that one could retrieve these tickets at this out-of-the-way office only Mondays-through-Fridays during "normal" business hours AND there had been no indication that one needed to alert the office about intentions to collect tickets on a particular day at a particular time. Fortunately, the young lady strolled into the adjoining office and collected the envelope with our tickets. It didn't seem to be that big a deal, i.e., why would one need a reservation for this transaction?
Sighing with relief and brushing off the accumulated irritation, we were then able to proceed with our adventure for the day. We headed up the hill toward the castle, which had been one of Mike's interests. The pathway up to the castle had a few interesting building surfaces.
I have to admit, I'm a sucker for the ornate stylings of Prague's edifices. They are often fanciful, almost magical. I appreciated these more geometric patterns as well, although they weren't my favorite.
I've mentioned this before, but it bears repeating--I notice more with a camera than without a camera.
I know it's hard to read, but the sign in the upper left part of the frame honors Jan Neruda. I later learned that Pablo Neruda took the Czech poet's name, first as a pen name and later legally changed his name to this nom de plume.
I saw this sign below the Prague Castle.
It reads: "On 25 February 1948, a multi-thousand student march heading to Prague Castle in support of President Benes and his efforts to preserve freedom and democracy, was brutally attacked by armed communist police at this place and in Hradcany Square. In memory of the brave students who, at the fateful moments in this nation, were not afraid of opposing incoming lawlessness." It was dated 1948 and attributed to the Prague Academic Club and the Senate of the Parliament of the Czech Republic.
As we've seen in many cities all over the world, musicians take to the streets to entertain and to earn.
Moving up to the castle proper afforded some spectacular views of the city on the other side of the river.
This view from the castle walls made me think of my husband's business, Holy Cow! Press:
The castle itself is very impressive. According to online sites, the Prague Castle (aka Hradcany), is either one of, if not THE, biggest castle in the world. Or, at least, it's considered the biggest ancient castle. Regardless, it's a great site. The dimensions of the castle are 570 meters long by 130 meters wide. The castle site also includes a home for the current president, the St. Vitus Cathedral, and the St. George Basilica. I counted 25 different buildings, not to mention gardens (not available for winter visits, for obvious reasons).
We weren't completely aware of how things worked at the castle, so we started by just wandering around the courtyards (there are three) within the castle walls.
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| The Matthias Gate |
The statues on either side of the gate show brutish figures beating supplicants.
The castle guards sport uniforms designed by now deceased (and much beloved) president Vaclav Havel.
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| The Bishop's Palace |
As is true of so many of the sites in Prague, there are tragic stories from within the palace walls. One site I visited told the story of the 1948 death of Jan Masaryk, the foreign minister, democrat and anti-communist who "fell to his death from one of the bathroom
windows [of the Czernin Palace]. It is still unclear whether it was a suicide or a murder
planned by the communist secret service."
Once inside the gated section of the palace, we gravitated to St Vitus Cathedral. Growing up, I remember my mother talking about
St. Vitus dance. We weren't Catholic, so I never developed much understanding of the saints. Apparently, he was a Sicilian martyr of the early church (fourth century), and is now considered the
patron saint of
actors,
comedians,
dancers, and
epileptics.
The Cathedral is huge and dominant. As we approached, we saw this rather sweet sight.
We managed to get inside the vestibule of the cathedral. It was at this point we realized we needed to buy tickets to move deeper. Having to move to the back of the line meant we had a little less time to explore. We bought a "short visit" pass which gave us access to St. Vitus
Cathedral, St. George Basilica, the Old Royal Palace,the Golden Lane, the Daliborka Tower and the White Tower. As was true
of so many of the sites I visited throughout my travels, there just was
not enough time to appreciate everything. I think the trick is that you
must accept this reality and aim for "getting a taste".
.
These two structures were in the second courtyard.
This is the west facade of the Cathedral featuring the Rose Window. While there has been a church on the site since 929, construction on this site began in 1344 when Prague was designated as an archbishoporic. The stained glass windows are 20th century additions.
My favorite window was this art deco piece by Alfons Mucha.
There were a number of ornate decorations, but this was probably the most amazing display.
We were there shortly after Christmas, so a number of nativity scenes were still on display.
This side is called the Golden Portal.
From the Cathedral, we headed to the Royal Palace. We entered through Vladislav Hall, built between 1493 and 1502.
Considered "one of the finest halls of the Middle Ages" with its great vaulting emanating from six buttresses formed in to a curvilinear ribbing, this hall measures 16 meters wide and 14 meters high. It was interesting to see the halls of government. There were numerous rooms devoted to burghers and guilds, as well as nobles.
We moved next to St. George's Basilica, built in the 12th century.
This facade dates back to the 17th century. The interior bespeaks its Romanesque origins.
There's a convent next door.
The day we visited, they had scheduled a concert for sundown.
We moved then to the Golden Lane.
This is a street of colorful wooden houses inhabited by goldsmiths and other tradespeople. This was the most commercial part of the castle complex, featuring numerous gift/tourist shops. Among the "houses" we visited was the herbalist's home.
We visited a number of rooms along the Golden Lane, as well as a couple of towers, but my camera ran out of battery.
At the end of our tour we explored the "Daliborka Tower, built in the 15th century as part of the
fortifications that were constructed during the reign of King Vladislav
II the Jagiellonian.
Daliborka Tower
The
tower was used as a dungeon and is named after its first inmate,
Dalibor of Kozojedy, a Bohemian knight. According to a local legend he
learned to play violin while he was imprisoned and people handed food to
him." This tower also featured displays of torture implements.
We had a snack of mulled wine and Czech pastries before heading back across the river to Leah and Mike's hotel.
We ended our day with a vegan dinner at a restaurant Leah and Mike had researched. It was a full day.
